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Jewellery through the decades: Georgian, Victorian & Art Nouveau

Jewellery has always been an important part of our culture and throughout the decades many different styles have emerged to reflect the societal changes of the period. From metalwork designs to diamond cuts and dominant colours, many of the trends have been passed down through the decades and can still be seen in the modern pieces that we wear today. Understanding the history of jewellery is a great way to get more enjoyment from your favourite pieces.

Georgian Jewellery (1714 – 1837)

Spanning the reigns of the 4 King Georges, the Georgian era was a time of huge social change during which the arts flourished and fashion became lighter and more delicate. This was reflected in the jewellery which was completely handcrafted and usually comprised of ornate metalwork and an abundance of gemstones. Popular materials used in Georgian jewellery include Sapphires, Rubies, Pearls and Garnets and these were normally backed by a layer of foil to increase luminesce and intensify the colours. Other notable characteristics include feminine motifs such as birds, eyes, flowers and butterflies. Towards the end of the period, mourning jewellery, particularly brooches, necklaces and rings, became very popular and, rather morbidly, were worn to remind people of their mortality. Usually made of gold, these pieces would also include strands or hair from departed ones and continued to stay in demand right through to Victorian times.

Victorian Jewellery (1837 – 1901)

With a reign that spanned over 60 years, Queen Victoria was hugely influential in the history of jewellery design and no other period has seen such a diverse group of jewellery attributed to it. Historians typically divide the era into 3 separate categories, each with their own distinct style. The Romantic Period (1837-1861) reflected the love between Victoria and Prince Albert and jewellery produced during this time was dominated by symbols such as hearts and flowers. Snake motifs were also incredibly popular due to the snake engagement ring that Albert gave to Victoria. The Grand Period (1861-1880) occurred after Albert died and Victoria went into a period of mourning. Jewellery was made out of black materials such as jet and onyx to reflect her grief and typically designs would include weeping willows, urns and women lamenting at tombs. The Aesthetic Period (1880-1901) saw jewellery being mass produced for the first time meaning it was more accessible to the emerging middle class. Stud earrings, diamond hair pins, choker necklaces and pearls became popular during this time, as did designs of dragons, moons and stars.

Art Nouveau Jewellery (1890-1915)

Although the Art Nouveau ‘’New Art’’ movement only lasted briefly between 1890 and 1915, it still had a lasting impact on jewellery design and many other arts. Originating in France, it was an unspoken protest against the Industrial Revolution that was leading to the loss of nature and the emergence of factories and mass production. Jewellers therefore created meticulous hand-crafted pieces that explored the natural world by depicting nymph-like maidens, peacocks and insects. Light colours were also popular and most pieces consisted of pearls or pastel shaded gemstones.

At McGowans, we stock a wide range of unique pieces from across the decades. You can view a small selection of our stock online.